Sept 15 –

mygarden

NTS:

-the corn in its new spot is growing a little haphazardly, I might give up on corn
- added two late tomatoes and they are sluggish
- the one watermelon I got didn’t get all the way mature – I think it needs to be hotter
- pulled out 2 of the remaining 3 tomatoes, the cherries are still popping
- the sage, without it’s tomato & corn shade, are getting burnt.
- added broccoli & cauliflower today, in the middle bed
- planted sweetpea (flowers) in the old corn bed, from seed.
- the cosmos, now that they have full sun, are happy

July 17 – put in lettuce, corn and peas

Given Oakland’s weird summer weather, I put in some trial summer greens (the slugs found them within days, I put out sluggo and who knows what’s happened – I am waiting to see if they get new leaves or just continue to look like crap), and just put in a new set of corn & peas seed. The corn – OMG – the corn I have varies from 2 feet to 7 feet and it appears that every plant is in a different phase of growth. My expectations are looooooow.

Sept 15 – got 3 mushy ears and pulled the rest out, second batch in, looks just as bad

Basil: why is this so difficult?

“Don’t overwater basil.” Can that be why they are all slowly dying? Is it the lack of sun & heat in North Oakland? Why is this so difficult?

From Gardening Patch dot com: “Growing Basil is relatively easy as long as the growing environments has suitable light and temperature levels…

Position

Basil should be grown in a position that receives a good amount of sunlight – around 6-8 hours a day. Basil can be grown indoors on a sunny windowsill or outdoors in containers or soil. If growing outside try and position the Basil in a sheltered spot that avoids cold winds.

Soil type

Basil likes a fertile soil that has been welll dug to allow good soil air circulation. Introducing well rotted organic compost or manure into the soil a month or so before sowing will help this.

If growing in pots then a general purpose compost is a suitable soil solution.

Tending

If growing indoors in pots using compost then weeds shouldn’t be a problem. If growing outdoors then you can add an organic mulch around the Basil plants to help aid soil moisture retention and prevent weed establishment.

If growing Basil in containers or indoor pots then add a small amount of fertiliser every month or so.
Water every week (more often if growing in outdoor containers or indoors).
When watering your Basil make sure to water at the base of the plant avoiding showering the leaves and stems.

Be sure to pinch out any flowers that appear. This will help preserve the plants flavour and also channel the plants energies into more leaf growth.

Harvesting

Basil is a pick and come again crop. It is best to pick a few leaves off a number of plants than picking all the leaves off one plant. Harvest the top most leaves first. Basil will grow all year round indoors but outdoor plants should be dug up and brought indoors before the first fall frosts if you want to extend the plants growing season into the winter.

Once harvested Basil can be frozen for later use.

Basil can be used in fresh or dried form. To dry Basil cut the stems at soil level and dry them in a dehydrator or hang bunches of stems up to air dry in a warm room, this should take about a week. Once the leaves are dried you can remove them from the stems and then store them in a dry airtight container for up to 12 months.

Varieties

The most popular variety of Basil is Sweet Basil and this is the variety most often used in cooking. Other varieties include Purple Basil (purple leaves) and Lemon Basil (a mild lemon flavour).

Earwigs and underground easter egg hunting

First, the fun news: Potatoes!I wanted to see if I’d over watered (really, I am just dying of curiosity) so I pulled out a few potatoes for dinner last night. They are tiny, but healthy & there!

potatoes-june-09

The white ones were from plants with white flowers, the red (which was more blue in real life) came from the blue flowers. Woo-Hoo!

The bad news: Earwigs. All in the lettuce, which is not such a big deal (the slugs worked me into a state of marginal acceptance on pests) as the lettuce is mostly growing for seeds for next year. But still, the give me the willies.

They are a kind of ying/yang bug, according to UC Davis: “Although they can devastate seedling vegetables or annual flowers and often seriously damage maturing soft fruit or corn silks, they also have a beneficial role in the landscape and have been shown to be important predators of aphids.”

Bad: European earwigs can cause substantial damage to seedling plants and soft fruit as well as to sweet corn. Damaged seedlings may be missing all or parts of their leaves and stem. Leaves on older plants, including fruit trees, have numerous irregular holes or are chewed around the edges. This damage may resemble damage caused by caterpillars. Look for webbing, frass (excrement), or pupae that would indicate the presence of caterpillars. Soft fruit such as apricots or strawberries may be attacked. Hard fruit such as apples will not be harmed. On stone fruit, look for shallow gouges or holes that extend deeply into the fruit. On strawberries, distinguish earwig damage from that of snails and slugs by checking for the slime trails left by snails and slugs. On corn, earwigs feed on silks and prevent pollination, causing poor kernel development. Earwigs may also damage flowers including zinnias, marigolds, and dahlias.

In other words, they need to GO. Here is how we will start:
Trapping

A key element of an earwig management program is trapping. Scatter numerous traps throughout the yard. Traps can easily be hidden near shrubbery and ground cover plantings, or against fences. A low-sided can, such as a cat food or tuna fish can, with 1/2-inch of oil in the bottom makes an excellent trap. Fish oil (e.g., tuna fish oil) is very attractive to earwigs or vegetable oil with a drop of bacon grease can be used. Dump captured earwigs and refill cans with oil. Other common types of traps are a rolled-up newspaper, corrugated cardboard, bamboo tube, or short piece of hose. Place these traps on the soil near plants just before dark and shake accumulated earwigs out into a pail of soapy water in the morning. Continue these procedures every day until you are no longer catching earwigs.

Growing Potatoes: notes

Order potatoes for planting 1 month before scheduled planting date (Ideal potato growing temperature is between 60 and 70 degrees F). March 21st / Berkeley (or April 21st Willits): sprout them in a warm, lighted area, with 50-60% humidity. Not too humid or hot, though. When sprouts are less than 3″ long cut them into pieces with 2 eyes per piece. Cover cut surfaces with ash & dry for 2-3 days.

Janet gave me Yellow Finns (Solanum tuberosum) and something else. The Finns have white flowers, the others have blue flowers. Here is a shot of them now, 10 weeks after planting:

potatoes_10weeks

Yellow Finns: 90 days. “The golden flesh and buttery flavor of Yellow Finn is not to be missed. This unique pear-shaped potato has a distinctive shape and requires a longer season to perform, producing lots of high quality spuds. Yellow Finn is a mealier textured potato and is therefore excellent for baking, boiling or mashing and keeps well. You don’t even need butter on this one, it tastes rich enough on its own. Yellow Finn elevates mashed potatoes to a new level.”

-also: Yellow Finns (medium starch) have the best flavor of the all-purpose potatoes. These golden-yellow, creamy-textured potatoes are great for gratins or roasting. 1 medium potato = 5 oz. = 1 cup medium (1/2 inch) dice

Source for Yellow Finns etc.: Kitchen Garden Seeds. I haven’t ordered from them yet, they do appear to be into the ’slow food movement’ but do not say ‘organic’ or anything else I like to see. Janet said, “The down side is that many of their seeds are grown on the East Coast and suited for their climates.  Although, the location of the seed company doesn’t necessarily tell you where the seeds come from, but it’s a good indication.” Then she recommended sources closer to home:

Peaceful Valley Farm Supply     www.groworganic.com

Renee’s seeds:   www.reneesgarden.com

Sustainable seed company:  http://www.sustainableseedco.com/

Note: For best results, purchase certified seed potatoes; these will have been inspected to ensure they are free from disease. Avoid planting supermarket potatoes, because they may have been treated with a growth inhibitor to prevent them from sprouting. Isn’t that gross & interesting?

Plant them 9 inches deep on 9 inch centers WHILE you double dig (after the trench has been loosened). Potatoes must have well-drained, fertile soil that is higher in organic matter and having a pH between 5.0 and 5.5.

Hill the soil up against the plants about a week after leaves emerge from soil. Repeat 2 to 3 weeks later. Be sure to provide adequate water 6 to 10 weeks after planting, when the potatoes start to form. Fertilize again around midseason.

Watering- Black or hollow centers on potatoes is often caused by over-watering. Irregular watering causes irregular shaped or knobby potatoes. As a guideline, water potatoes (thoroughly) weekly during warmer summer weather.

Potatoes like cool weather: if it is toasty, stake them so the vines can stand up straight and there is a better microclimate to keep the plants and soil cooler.

One way to insure good yield is to reduce the amount of nitrogen available to the plant.

Harvest any time after flowering: preferably after 90% of the green matter has died back. Most of the tuber will develop in the last 30-45 days of its growing period: do not harvest early. Store them in a dark (refuse to buy any potatoes that show a hint of green: they have been lightstruck), humid, cool location.

Important info.: Green skin and shoots of the potato are toxic! They are related to eggplant, tomatoes and peppers.Learn more about the Nightshade family of plants here on wikipedia.

June checklist

From Berkeley Hort…

June Checklist

  • Prune Fruit Trees for a dwarfing effect.
  • Reset automatic watering systems for longer days.
  • Wrap-up your planting for summer veggies.
  • Aquatic plants look best now, and are in good supply.
  • Feed Ornamental Grasses with an organic All-purpose fertilizer.

Also – put in tomatos in Oakland/Berkeley end May/beg June.. otherwise too early for them to be happy. Same for corn. Make sure they get good sun.

Cooking with herbs

.. or “how to start to use the stuff I planted a few months ago”

Info: “The most flavorful culinary herbs are harvested from well tended plants in their leaf making stage. All herbs have two phases of growth: the leaf stage and the flower (or reproductive stage). When the plant enters its flowering stage, leaf production slows or stops and the leaves on the plant may become bitter, grassy, woody, or yellowed. These leaves are not of optimum quality for cooking. Flowering can be delayed by harvesting kitchen herbs often.  If your herbs grow too fast to use them all fresh, dry or process the extra for later use.”

The Herb Garden 6-Pack (from Mountain Valley Growers):

1. Chives

2. English Thyme

3. Spanish Tarragon

4. Greek Oregano

5. Rosemark

6. Sage

CHIVES (Allium schoenopraseum):

Chives add a dash of flavor and elegance to so many different foods that it is amazing the humble baked potato made them a household word. Chives are best used fresh, but may be frozen. Fresh, they can be chopped fine and added to butters (great for corn on the cob), soft cheeses, and salads. Chives are often used as part of ”Fines Herbes”. This blend of finely chopped fresh herbs is usually made up of equal parts of three or four of the following: Basil, Chervil, Chives, Marjoram, Mint, Parsley, Rosemary, Sage, Savory, Tarragon, or Thyme; and is usually added at the end of cooking so that the delicate flavors are not lost.

Bright purple Chive flowers make an eye catching and flavorful garnish sprinkled on salads, omelets, chicken and vegetable dishes. These attractive early spring flowers also make Chives a good choice for edging the herb garden.

When harvesting Chives, be sure to cut the spears completely to the ground; this will help eliminate grassy pieces in the clumps. Anytime it seems there are more yellow or brown spears than green ones, cut the whole plant back to the ground.

Easy to grow and fun to experiment with, Chives are hardy from Zone 3, grow well in most soils, and make great container plants. For a tasty treat, make up a patio pot with a few plants of both Chives and Garlic Chives. Potted Chives should be divided and repotted every year or two. Planted in the ground, Chives multiply so rapidly that they usually  have to be lifted and divided by the third year.

ENGLISH THYME (Thymus vulgaris):

English Thyme leaves may be small, but they pack a powerful punch. Thyme is one of the savory herbs, which are main course herbs used to flavor hearty meals, bone warming soups, and piquant sauces. They blend their essence with other savory herbs like Tarragon and Winter Savory to create memorable flavors. Thyme is one of the three traditional herbs used in “Fines Herbes“, and is often used in making Bouquet Garni”, a little herbal bouquet used when simmering foods. Try this one with Salmon: two sprigs each Tarragon, Parsley, and Dill, and one sprig of Thyme. Thyme has a warming flavor that is perfect with winter thyme treats like Baked Butternut Squash.

English Thyme blooms in spring and attracts early butterflies and many different kinds of beneficial flies and wasps. Its flowers are a  favorite of honeybees. Plant in full sun for best flavor. Make sure the soil drains well and is fairly fertile. After Thyme blooms it splays out messily in all directions. To prune, pull its many squirrelly stems up in a ponytail and crop them past the spent blooms (about a third of the way into the leaves) to encourage lush new growth. Leaves can be used fresh any time. To dry a large quantity of Thyme, wait until the plant starts to regrow after pruning. In the early morning, after the dew has dried, cut three or four inch long stem segments and make small bundles tied with string or twist ties. Hang these out of direct light and check often for dryness. How long this will take depends on the moisture in the air. It is very important to make sure the Thyme is completely dry before storing, because improperly dried herbs can mildew and rot. If the herb is crispy when crushed between the fingers, then it is dry. When cooking with dried herbs, always measure out the desired quantity away from the steam of what you are cooking. This avoids introducing moisture into the jar which can cause the herbs to mold or clump together.

Hardy from Zone 5, English Thyme does well in a container. Try a trio of English Thyme, Caraway Thyme, and Lemon Thyme in one of our 20 inch Oval Windowsill Planters for a year round taste treat.

SPANISH TARRAGON (Tagetes lucida):


Spanish Tarragon is sumptuous with meats, vegetables and its slight sweetness makes it perfect for rice, pasta and desert dishes. Much easier to grow and more bountiful, it is the perfect replacement for the temperamental French Tarragon and can be used in the traditional blends  Fines Herbes, “Herbes de Provence”, and “ Bouquet Garni”. It can be used alone or in conjunction with other herbs like Basil to flavor White Wine Vinegar. Add a couple of teaspoons of Tarragon Vinegar to Hollandaise Sauce for a special Eggs Benedict Brunch. Particularly tasty with scallops, chopped Tarragon added during steaming or barbecuing can improve almost any white fish.

A marigold with uncommon licorice flavor, Spanish Tarragon is a herbaceous perennial, hardy to Zone 8, that returns larger each spring. Single yellow flowers appear in late fall but do not have the same flavor as the long, dark green leaves. Snip leaves anytime during the growing season for fresh use.  Harvest for winter before the first frost. Preserve by blending with a little olive oil and freezing.

In colder areas, plants can be grown in a container outside during the spring and summer and then be over-wintered indoors. Growth may disappear below the ground, but should return in the spring. Grow in full sun for maximum flavor development. In the garden, Spanish Tarragon likes loose soil with good drainage.

GREEK OREGANO (Origanum vulgare hirtum):

Greek Oregano has a strong flavor, but it doesn’t hold up well to prolonged cooking, especially when used fresh. Harvest fresh leaves right before use. Wash and pat dry. If you are harvesting several hours ahead of time, wash, dry, wrap in dry paper towels, and refrigerate. They will keep a few hours this way. Or, whole stems can be placed in a glass or–even better–an attractive vase of water. This is a fun way to prepare for a meal. Pick several kinds of cooking herbs and make a culinary bouquet. Aromatic sprigs of Rosemary, Greek Oregano, Winter Savory, and Basil waiting close by the stove will make both the creative and digestive juices flow.  Greek Oregano chopped and mixed with garlic, salt, and olive oil makes a great marinade for pork, beef, or roasted potatoes. Add a little Rosemary to the marinade and use it on poultry. Or use fresh leaves as a topping for homemade pizza (this is the way Greek Oregano was first used for pizza, not as ingredient in the sauce).

Dried Greek Oregano is a great way to get through the winter blues. It can be used for herbal marinades or can be added near the end of cooking to any tomato based sauce, sauté, stir fry, or egg dish. Try a sprinkle of dried Greek Oregano on your next grilled cheese sandwich. Fresh or dried Oregano can also be combined with other herbs to make a herb crusting mix for pork chops, tenderloins, or chicken breasts. When substituting dried herbs for fresh herbs, one tablespoon of fresh herbs equals about one teaspoon of dried herbs. Small amounts of Greek Oregano can be dried any time. Usually just laying the clippings left over from dinner’s harvest in a ceramic bowl will do the trick. But to harvest for winter use, it is easiest to dry all that will be needed at one time. Four to six weeks before the first frost, cut the herb back to about three inches above the ground  Allow the plant to regrow and then, before frost, cut long stems (6 to 8 inches), tie in small groups, and hang out of sunlight in a warm room. Check often and, when crispy dry, store whole stems in glass jars in a dark cupboard or pantry. Leaving the leaves on the stems will preserve more flavor than stripping the leaves and grinding them into a powder. Greek Oregano can also be pureed with a bit of olive oil and frozen. Freeze flat in pint size zip lock bags. Because the olive oil doesn’t freeze, sections of this frozen pesto can be easily broken off and used.

Hardy from Zone 5, Greek Oregano, like most herbs, prefers six hours of sun each day to fully develop its mouth watering flavors. In hot summer areas, afternoon shade can cut down on watering and stress to the plant. And mulching is always a good practice to improve the soil and help keep root zone temperatures moderate. Any stress a plant goes through, such as parching and watering and parching and watering, will invite insects and disease. Greek Oregano may prove difficult to grow in areas of heat and humidity or excessive winter rain. Humidity can be dealt with somewhat by planting in raised beds or containers and by giving the plants plenty of space between them for air to circulate. Well drained soil will help during periods of excessive rain. Raised beds filled with organic topsoil and compost are good for this also. Anywhere puddles form after a rain is probably not a great place for Greek Oregano.

ROSEMARY (Rosmarinus officinalis):

Wafting fragrance emitted from Rosemary on a hot sultry day can cool and refresh. The sound of the bees busily working the flowers is music to our freeway tired ears. Snapping a few branches and winding them into a loose wreath, we take the herb into the kitchen to contemplate the possibilities. No matter how much we enjoy Rosemary in the garden, Rosemary in the kitchen is what it is all about. Cooking with Rosemary is a true delight. As it flavors our food, it perfumes our home.

Any Rosemary can be used for cooking but we prefer our Upright Rosemary for both fresh and dried use. Cooking with Rosemary can be as simple as chopping a few leaves to add to a leftover turkey sandwich or as elegant as mixing a bit of chopped fresh Rosemary with salt, pepper, and flour to rub on Cornish game hens for roasting. Because the leaves are thick, always chop them as finely as possible. Go cautiously at first because a little Rosemary goes a long way. Or, use whole stems by adding them near the end of cooking and then remove as you would a bay leaf. Try using 10 inch stems for barbecue skewers. There is no need to remove the leaves unless the Rosemary might overpower the food.

Rosemary is winter hardy in zones 8 through 11. It requires excellent drainage and full sun. In colder areas, It can be grown in a container throughout the summer and brought in for the winter. Give it a sunny spot and or 16 hours of  artificial lighting. Be careful not to over water.  It is not necessary for the health of the plant to prune, but Rosemary can be pruned for shape after flowering has occurred, usually about mid spring. Pruning later will remove next year’s flowers.

SAGE (Salvia officinalis):

Culinary Sages are best used fresh, but they can be dried. For drying large amounts of leaves, wait until after the plants have grown back after pruning the blooms. Wash the plants in the garden with a fine spray of water the night before; and the next morning, when the dew has dried, cut stems as long as possible without cutting into old wood. Hang these in bunches of three of four in a dark, dry, clean area. As soon as they are crispy dry, strip the leaves (whole, if possible) and seal them in an airtight container placed out of direct light. The flavor should remain potent for three or four months–at least until spring brings fresh, tender leaves again. Besides the traditional use in stuffing, Sage is good with pork, sausage, other meats, and cheese. It is often combined with Thyme and used with beans and in soups. Use Sage with fruits in vinegars; if the vinegar is a light colored elixir, try one of the variegated forms of Garden Sage like Tricolor or Golden Garden Sage. The bluish purple flowers of Garden Sage make an attractive garnish in salads, butters, soft cheeses, and ice cubes. Spice up hamburger night with a blend of freshly chopped or dried Sage, Mint, Rosemary, Oregano, and Basil.

Fresh picked ‘hands’ of Sage tips can be used to make wreaths or tussie-mussies. They dry well and have that heavenly Sage fragrance.

Salvia officinalis is hardy to Zone 5 and blooms profusely for about three or four weeks in spring. Planted in a row or in a block, it is one of the prettiest of all the Salvias. Garden Sage (Salvia officinalis), as well as all of its many forms, is short lived. Either becoming too woody for adequate production or dying out completely, these Sages usually need to be replaced every three or four years. It does help somewhat if the plants are pruned back beyond the flowers when the bloom is finished, but care should be taken not to prune into wood that has no growth showing.

Herbs at a Glance

Herbs

Parts Used

How Used

Used For

Recipe Links

Chives

Leaves/
Flowers

Fresh or Frozen

Soups, salads, salad dressings, eggs, dips, vegetables, chicken, soft cheese spreads, butters, white sauces, and  fish.

Food Network

English Thyme

Leaves/
Flowers

Fresh or Dried

Game, beef, soft cheeses, fish, chowders, pâté, vegetables, and tomato sauce.

Epicurious.com

Tarragon
(French or Spanish)
Leaves Fresh or Dried Chicken, fish, eggs, tomato juice, butters (especially nice on steak), vinegars, salads, mustards, sauces (hollandaise, béarnaise and tartar), Soups (chicken, fish, mushroom and tomato) and marinades for fish, lamb or pork.

Cooking.com

Greek Oregano Leaves Fresh or Dried Sauces (white and tomato), stews, soups, fish, lamb, pork, vegetables, butters, and vinegars.

All Recipes

Rosemary Leaves Fresh or Dried Beef, lamb, fish, poultry, stuffings, soups, stews, fruit cups, soups (chicken, pea, and spinach), vegetables, and marinades.

About.com

Sage Leaves/
Flowers
Fresh or Dried Stuffings (for fish, poultry, and meat), pâté, eggs, poultry, pork, beef, lamb, pasta, cheeses (cheddar, cream, and cottage), sauces (brown and meat), soups (cream and chowder), beef stews, and vegetables.

Weather Avg Temps

Weather for the people I ask for gardening help, to calibrate:
Oakland CA:
oakland-avg-temp-chart

Walnut Creek, CA:

walnut-creek-ave-temp-chart

Willits (Bountiful Gardens):

willits-avg-temp-chart

And Oakland rainfall averages:

oakland-rain

2 months to green onions!!

Also got some AMAZING SMELLING green onions from the garden today.

greenonions

NTS to freakin’ mark the date things go in! I will estimate that I put in the seedlings for the green onions and leeks in early April. So it has been 7 weeks and according to The Sustainable Vegetable Garden, I should have been able to harvest 8 weeks after planting from seed. You can harvest, they expain, when the plants are slightly thicker than your little finger and they can stay in the ground until you’re ready to eat them. Oh boy oh boy!

Next year: start seeds around 3/15 and we’ll get ‘em all earlier.

Leeks: The time from planting to harvest is about 80 days from transplants and 120 days from seed. Pull the leeks as you need them, but harvest them all before frost. Mid June we’ll look for leeks to be ready. Those are the ones in the back, nearer to the potatoes in my garden.

There are several varieties of leeks available to home vegetable gardeners. We’ve listed the different varieties of leeks below.

Broad London, harvest at 30 days from seed, produces thick mild-flavored stems. Titan, harvest at 100 days, is earlier and larger than Broad London and has a broader base. American Flag, harvest at 95 days, is easy and flavorful.

NTS: I need a calendar for this stuff. When to expect to harvest. TG I went to help Janet today or I’d be watering along letting everything rot in the garden until the tomatoes got red.

Just use Sluggo

3 days = slugs all gone.